Few pasta dishes are as loved in Britain as spaghetti bolognese, and few cause as many arguments in Italy. It's on the main menu at Fiena, our family-run Italian cafe, bar and restaurant at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street, London WC1H 9QX, a few minutes' walk from King's Cross St Pancras. Here's where the sauce comes from, why Bologna would serve it with different pasta, and how we serve ours.
Ragù: Bologna's sauce
What the world calls Bolognese sauce is, in Italian, ragù alla bolognese, and in Bologna itself simply ragù. It's a slowly cooked meat sauce. It starts with a soffritto of onion, celery and carrot, then minced or finely chopped beef, often with a little fatty pork. White wine, milk and a small amount of tomato go in, and the sauce is simmered gently for a long time until it's thick. So it's a meat sauce with a little tomato, rather than a tomato sauce with some meat in it.
A short history
The sauce's roots are linked to the French ragoût, a stew that became popular in the 18th century. The earliest documented recipe for a ragù served with pasta dates from the end of that century, in Imola, near Bologna. It was written by Alberto Alvisi, cook to the local cardinal, Barnaba Chiaramonti, who later became Pope Pius VII. In 1891, Pellegrino Artusi published a recipe for maccheroni alla bolognese in his famous cookbook.
In 1982 the Italian Academy of Cuisine recorded a "classic Bolognese ragù" and deposited it with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce, and it published an updated version in 2023. Even so, as the British food writer Felicity Cloake puts it, "there is no definitive recipe for a Bolognese meat sauce, but to be worthy of the name, it should respect the traditions of the area." More on Wikipedia's Bolognese sauce page.
Spaghetti or tagliatelle?
Here's the bit that surprises people. In Bologna, ragù is traditionally served with fresh egg tagliatelle, not spaghetti. Other flat pastas such as pappardelle and fettuccine, and tubes such as rigatoni and penne, are also accepted. Spaghetti bolognese became popular in English-speaking countries, and it's now a classic in its own right. Some Italian writers have even argued that Bologna should embrace it.
Our spaghetti bolognese
On our main menu, the Spaghetti bolognese is spaghetti with slow-cooked beef ragù, the British favourite. It's served from midday until close every day. If you need to avoid gluten, gluten-free penne is available for all of our pasta dishes, and penne is one of the shapes Bologna accepts for ragù anyway. Our post on gluten-free pasta and pizza has more.
Slow-cooked beef ragù is also the heart of our Lasagna, layered with béchamel, mozzarella and parmesan. That's lasagne alla bolognese, the other classic use of the sauce, and our post on lasagna tells its story. For another Italian classic that's often misunderstood abroad, see our post on spaghetti carbonara.
Katelyn put our bolognese at the top of her list: Best aperol spritz and spaghetti bolognaise I’ve had in a while!
(Katelyn S., Google review) And Ayub wrote that The pasta was perfectly al dente, the sauces tasted homemade
(Ayub, Google review).
Before and after
Start with something to share: Garlic bread or Garlic bread cheese, the Bruschetta with marinated plum tomatoes, basil, oregano and garlic, or the Arancini. Our post on garlic bread and sharing starters covers the lot. To finish, the dessert menu has tiramisu, profiteroles, a chocolate soufflé and gelato; see our guide to desserts.
A red to go with it
A meaty ragù wants a red with some fruit. From our drinks menu: the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a classic medium-bodied red with plum and red berries and soft tannins; the Cara Amica Sangiovese brings cherry, red berries and a hint of spice; and the Sicilian Vitis Nostra Nero d'Avola is fuller, with black cherry and chocolate. Prefer beer? There's Moretti on draught. Our guide to the wine list has more.
“I'd eat here every night if I could”
Fiona, Google review, 2026
Good to know
- When: the main menu runs from midday until close, 22:00 Monday to Saturday and 21:00 on Sunday.
- Booking: tables for up to eight can be booked online, and walk-ins are welcome whenever we have space.
- Allergies: information on the 14 major allergens is available on request. Please speak to your server before you order.
- Address: 4 Medway Court, Judd St, London WC1H 9QX. Phone 020 4618 6314.
Ragù and spaghetti, from midday. Book a table or walk in at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street.